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(If you'll be staying overnight in Padua or parking a car, consider paying a little extra for a Padova Card).This funky wine-and-grappa bar is still run by Oreste (with his Chicagoan wife, Beverly) like a 1970s, old-style was once the private chapel of the archbishop of Verona.Hi, I'm Rick Steves, back with more of the Best of Europe.The artichokes are in season, and I'm working up an appetite in the north of Italy: It's Verona, Padova, and Ravenna. I'm not in Venice, but it feels like Venice…just without the canals.Italy stretches, like Europe's boot, into the Mediterranean Sea. Exploring a region called the Veneto, we'll visit Padova and Verona before finishing in Ravenna. Like the rest of the Veneto, Padova was ruled by Venice from the 15th century until Napoleon came — at about 1800.Chafing under Venetian rule for four centuries seemed only to sharpen Padova's independent spirit.You can sit on a quiet street or in a plush little dining area inside.

The basilica — standing as a sanctuary of order in the midst of the madness after the fall of Rome — is covered with lavish mosaics.

Anthony, and celebrate an irreverent university graduation.

We'll see an ancient Roman arena in a modern urban setting, admire exquisite Byzantine mosaics, and make friends over a little grappa.

We enliven each stop with a tasty dose of Italian Access to Palazzo Bò is by a mostly underwhelming 45-minute guided tour, but tour does Europe's first great Anatomy Theater (from 1594).

Despite the Church's strict ban on autopsies, more than 300 students would pack this theater to watch professors dissect human cadavers (the bodies of criminals from another town).

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